If this is your first mod, we recommend taking a look at the modding help page.
Disassembly
1. First, take off the pommel ring and remove the battery holder.
2. Unscrew the emitter ring. Then the blade can be removed.
3. Unscrew the covertech wheel.
4. Now remove the activator. To do this, tap the small steel pin out of the switch with a thin object. Now you can carefully pull off the red cap.
5. Unscrew the screw underneath, and you can pull out the black switch.
6. Next, remove the large silver screw located directly below the rotary switch.
7. Now the entire housing with the electronics can be slid out toward the pommel.
Blade disassembly
8. Remove the LED strip from the blade. To do this, tap both steel pins outward with a pin punch and pull off the blade holder.
9. Then tap the small steel pin in the blade inward with a pin punch, after which the LED strip mount can be removed.
Soldering
10. Cut the mount open on both sides and detach the LED strip with its wiring. The clash sensor sits on the LED strip. Now carefully desolder it; the connector with the wires can stay on the strip.
11. Carefully cut or pry open the housing containing the soundboard on both sides.
12. Cut the wires leading to the LED strip connector.
13. To make the work easier, it's a good idea to take the soundboard out of the chassis. To do this, loosen the two screws that fasten the board to the lower half of the chassis.
14. Glue the LED onto the heatsink with thermal adhesive.
15. Now solder the wires.
16. If you unscrewed the soundboard, fasten it again just like before. Now attach the upper half of the chassis to the lower one and join them with a bit of tape or glue.
Working on the blade holder
17. Press the lens holder with the lens into a 25mm long aluminum tube (25mm outer diameter, 1.5mm wall thickness, sold by the meter at hardware stores). You may need to sand down the edges of the lens holder.
18. Now slide the aluminum tube with the lens and lens holder into its future position in the blade holder.
19. Now drill two opposite holes through the blade holder and the aluminum tube. Make sure the holes are positioned so that the lens and lens holder aren't damaged and there's enough room for the LED.
20. Now tap both holes with an M4 thread.
21. Now connect the aluminum tube and the blade holder with two M4 set screws. This prevents the aluminum tube, which serves as the rear seat for the blade, from slipping. You may need to grind down the set screws so they don't protrude so far into the tube that they push the heatsink with the LED to the side.
Assembly
22. Slide the tube into the blade holder and screw it in place.
23. Now glue the LED with the heatsink onto the lens holder in the aluminum tube.
24. Then slide the blade holder and the soundboard chassis together, making sure no wires get pinched.
25. Finally, slide all the internals back into the saber and reassemble it by following steps 1 to 7 in reverse order.