If this is your first mod, we recommend taking a look at the modding help page.
Disassembly
1. First, remove the blade, the pommel ring and the battery holder.
2. Now carefully pry the gold circuit board off the box so you can remove the two screws underneath.
3. After that, the activator box with the switch can be taken off the hilt.
4. Now desolder the switch and push the wires into the hilt.
5. Next, unscrew the small screw under the activator box.
6. Once the screw is out, the housing with the electronics can be slid out of the hilt.
Blade disassembly
7. Next, remove the LED strip from the blade. To do this, tap both steel pins outward with a pin punch and pull off the blade holder.
8. Then tap the small steel pin in the blade inward with a pin punch, and the LED strip mount can be removed.
9. Cut the mount open on both sides and detach the LED strip with its wiring.
Soldering
10. The clash sensor sits on the LED strip. Now carefully desolder it; the connector with the wires can stay on the strip.
11. Carefully cut or pry open the housing containing the soundboard on both sides.
12. Open the small housing that holds the small circuit board and cut all the wires.
13. Glue the LED onto the heatsink with thermal adhesive. Press the lens holder with the lens into a 25 mm long aluminum tube (25 mm outer diameter, 1.5 mm wall thickness, sold by the meter at hardware stores). You may need to sand down the edges of the lens holder.
14. Now solder the wires. After a successful test, the lower part of the clash sensor with the wires should be potted in hot glue.
Working on the blade holder
15. Now slide the aluminum tube with the optics into its future position in the blade holder.
16. Now drill two opposite holes through the blade holder and the aluminum tube. Make sure the holes are positioned so that the optics aren't damaged and there's enough room for the LED.
17. Now tap both holes with an M4 thread.
18. Now connect the aluminum tube and the blade holder with two M4 set screws. This way the aluminum tube, which serves as the rear seat for the blade, can no longer slip. You may need to grind down the set screws so they don't protrude so far into the tube that they push the heatsink with the LED to the side.
Assembly
19. Now glue the LED with the heatsink onto the lens holder in the aluminum tube.
20. Close the soundboard chassis again. Then slide the blade holder and the soundboard chassis together, making sure no wires get pinched.
21. Finally, slide all the internals back into the saber and reassemble it by following steps 1 to 5 in reverse order.