Hyperdyne Labs - Hyperblade - Tutorials

Mounting guideline
[Back]

Each Hyperdyne kit includes a CD. On the CD are the following informations:

An installation guide with several pictures ( as a template, the Anakin ROTS from Master Replicas has been used)

Information about the Bluetooth module and how to transfer sounds / effects on the board

All information about the kit and links on various accessories.

Note to the tutorial:
Since the CD includes complete installation instructions, there's not much sense to mention another instruction here. Even how to disassemble a FX Lightsaber from Master Replicas is described on our site.
Hilts As I mentioned, there are important differences on the different hilts which should be considered for the assembly.
Note:
Your better think about which hilt you want to convert in advance. This is important since there are big differences from hilt to hilt that cause problems. I e.g. chose the Anakin ROTS, which caused problems afterwards!

General informations for the assembly in the Anakin ROTS At first, the installation itself is much more difficult than, for example, at the Luke ROTJ, because the Anakin is one piece. Therefore it is quite complicated, to fit the assembled kit correctly into the hilt. So the LED driver board (with the port for the LED bar and the multifunction switch), the sound module with the mini-amplifier (in sandwich construction with the sound module) connected with the speaker, the battery charging socket and the Vibration engine! For such a relatively small hilt comes a lot together and the whole wiring can be a little hindering to fit the pieces correctly into the hilt! Here is required a lot of flair, time and patience!

The multi-function switch After the kit is properly placed, the multi-function switch has to be attached. It is very important and has the following functions:

Turn the blade on and off

Set the pulse speeds for core and movie Flicker

Switch the battery into another mode

According to the Installation Guide from Hyperdynelabs, the switch is attached in the clamp / Activation box and is fixed there with glue. So where the original switch has been! There also the inner life of the clamp (the black plastic part) has to be modified to correctly fix the switch into the clamp. Since the multifunction switch is a much smaller size (approx. 5x5 mm) than the original switch (this is no longer needed) there is a large optical problem (at least in my opinion). As soon as new switch fits in his place, there is quite a big hole in the clamp / Aktivatorbox, namely the one where the original original switch has been! This problem occurs on every hilt, which has a clamp or activation box (excluding the Obi Wan and Vader)!
There are now following solutions to the problem:

Fill the hole with liquid plastic.

Make a small, fitting plastic adapter and glue it in the hole of the clamp.

Make a completely new clamp, which is very complex and expensive (in my opinion, however, the perfect solution).

Let the hole as it is, but visually not very good.

I myself have a completely new clamp to them, which only a small hole for the new switch. But only because I am someone's hand, this machine and the copied original.
By other means e.g. by a company, so was very expensive and it is then determined in no relation. The making of various small parts is unfortunately very expensive, because several companies to create specific parts of good pay! As you now can surely guess, is the only multi-function switch for one thing. There is a lot to do and a lot of time and rest linked!
Note:
For all other hilts, such as the Darth Maul and Mace Windu, of course, a suitable place for the switch has to be found! So you better pre-elect, where you want to place the switch or which hilt you want to use.

The speaker The installation of the speaker is basically not a big problem, since it's just inserted to the hilt or the lock ring.
There are two sizes of the speaker.
The smaller for:
The Anakin, Vader, Darth Maul und Mace Windu.
These pieces have a internal thread for the lock ring and so the inner diameter is much lower than, for example at the Luke ROTJ. The inner diameter of the lock ring itself is also smaller, so the greater the speaker may doesn't fit in these models!
The larger for:
The Luke ROTJ und Obi Wan . On this hilts the inner diameter is slightly larger (in the hilt itself, since external thread, as well as in the lock ring). Here the slightly larger speaker finds its place. Therefore (as mentioned above) let Hyperdyne know which hilt you want to use for the conversion and which speaker you need.
Then you can place the vibration motor from the inside at the end of the hilt or you place it in the lock ring / Speaker ring! It is only important that it can turn correctly and is not detained by the wiring.
The lock ring was another big problem, namely the large opening (where the series speaker was surrounded with)!
The problem was the following:
If you screw the lock ring on the hilt, you look directly on the speaker! This of course doesn't look very good and the speaker isn't protected very vell, since it quickly can be damaged through the now existing large opening! Even it gets no real hold, because it hasn't really a seating. This is noticeable of course, when playing the sounds.
There are now following possibilities to eliminate this problem:

Make a round plastic or metal part, and glue it inside the lock ring. Don't forget the slots or holes, so the acoustics can get outside! Thus, the lock ring again has a flat surface, as in original condition with the original speakers.
Your manufacture a complete new lock ring, but this variant is more difficult, but certainly the best. Once visually and technically. As I said, those parts are quite expensive, if you don't have the possibility to make them on your own.

Here it also is not just: put the speaker in and you're done but handcrafting and adjusting (referring to the Anakin).

The vibration motor As I have just described, the installation isn't a great problem. You just have you decide where it should sit! The best method is to fix it to the inner side of the lock ring or the lower end of the hilt. Pay attention that the vibration motor can rotate freely and is attached correctly to the hilt to transfer the vibrations correctly.
The vibration motor has the following functions:
When activating of the sword, the hilt is oscillated with slight vibrations (similar to how it works for a mobile phone), what makes the whole thing more interesting.

The polycarbonatetube and the LED-strip You need to be good at measuring and cutting!
Better meassure three times before you have a too short tube, because you only have one. This applies to the main tube as well as for the thinner inner tube! Both have the same length! Do it like described in the tutorial from Hyperdyne. Since the main tube is also slightly thicker externally, it probably will not fit the hilt (the chrome plastic tube or emitter), there are now two options:

Do it as the Hyperdyne tutorial describes

Carefully sand the tube from the outside a bit, so that it fits into the hilt. Because it is only a thin layer it wouldn't damage the tube

The advantage of the second variant is the following:
Since you sanded some material from the tube and not from the original inside of the emitter, you can use the original Master Replicas FX tube at any time. Of course it only makes sense if you have the opportunity to get such tubes which are slightly longer. Ideally, however, would be non-transparent tubes, which are then combined in addition to the translucent film! You also need the translucent foam hose (of course, slightly longer than the original) to place the LED strip!
My tip:
Don't sand the interior of the chrome plastic tube / emitter, but rather take some material from the main tube! This allows the option of your own tube, for your ownd ideas!

[Back]