- After the Disassembling (Link) the chassis with the electronics needs to be but open at the splices cleanly.
Photo 1
- The two small screws are removed, so one can open the small chassis with the contacts.
Photo 2
- Now the cables need to be separated from the circuit board (either by unsoldering or cutting).
Photo 3
- After that remove the LED-strip from the blade. Therefore knock the two metal pins out of the chassis and draw off the black covering.
Photo 4,
Photo 5
- Knock the small metal pin within the blade with a hammer and a blunt nail or thorn inwards.
Photo 6
- Now one can draw off the black fixture of the LED-strip.
Photo 7
The fixture is to be unpicked and the LED-strip with the wiring to be loosened.
Photo 8
- The connector is not required anymore and can therefore stay in the LED-strip. For the clash-sensor is located on the LED-strip, it is to be unsoldered cautiously.
Photo 9,
Photo 10
- Afterwards everything needs to be wired and soldered. Therefore connect the following cables:
Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green and Blue are soldered together and later connected with the LED’s positive pole.
- The violet and the grey cable are connected. The connection is to be soldered to the thin wire of the clash-sensor as well as the negative pole of the LED.
The white cable belongs to the slightly thicker wire of the clash-sensor. The whole construction should then look like this.
Photo 11,
Photo 12
Now one should check, if everything is connected right and if the LED as well as sound and clash actually work.
- Then glue the LED onto the cooling element with a head conductive glue-pad. Also the positive and negative pole of the LED are soldered to the corresponding cables. After that the lensholder with the lens is set onto the LED and secured with some glue.
Photo 13
- Now the LED with the cooling element and the lens is pushed into a fixture. This fixture consists of a 2,5cm long aluminium tube that protects, cools and provides an optimal support to the LED.
Photo 14
Photo 15
- The aluminium tube with the LED (fixture) needs to be pushed into the bladeholder, so all is in one line. Afterwards the LED is soldered to the other cables.
Photo 16
- After that the bladeholder is laid into one of the chassis’ halves. Pay attention that the check rails nest.
Photo 17
- Lay the cables cautiously and afterwards connect the second chassis’ half with the other and close them. In doing so it is important that both cables for the
activator are laid through the opening of the second half before closing the chassis. Before closing the chassis, it is as well inevitable to measure exactly, where the LED with the
cooling element and the aluminium tube is located.
- Lay the cables cautiously and afterwards connect the second chassis’ half with the other and close them. In doing so it is important that both cables for the
Both halves of the chassis are now fixed together with some duct tape (the chassis with the soundboard and the bladeholder).
Afterwards drill a small hole into each half, where the aluminium tube with the LED is located. Connect both halves with two small screws in a way that the screws drill into the aluminium tube.
Photo 18,
Photo 19
- Now one can put the saber back together again as described in the disassembling - with the difference that it is now fit for combat.
Photo 20,
Photo 21
Naturally the assembly works the complete way around.
The Lightsaber
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