After the
disassembling
the following steps are necessary for a conversion to HPLED.
- The chassis, in which the soundboard is located, is to be cut open cautiously at both sides.
Photo 1
- Open the small chassis, in which the little circuit board is located, and unsolder or cut off all the cables.
Photo 2 und
Photo 3
- Remove the LED-strip from the blade next. Therefore knock out both metal pins with a thorn and draw of the blade's fixture.
Photo 4 und
Photo 5
- After that knock the small metal pin within the blade inwards with a thorn and detach the fixture of the LED-strip.
Photo 6 und
Photo 7
- Open the fixture on both sides and disconnect LED-strip with the wiring.
Photo 8
- The clash-sensor is located on the LED-strip. It needs to be unsoldered cautiously, at which the connector with the cables can stay on the strip.
Photo 9 und
Photo 10
- Now everything needs to be wired and soldered. Therefore connect the following cables:
Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green and Blue are soldered together and later connected with the LED's positive pole.
Photo 11
- The violet and the grey cable are connected. The connection is to be soldered to the thin wire of the clash-sensor as well as the negative pole of the LED.
Photo 12
The white cable belongs to the slightly thicker wire of the clash-sensor. The whole construction should then look like this.
Photo 13
Now one should check, if everything is connected right and if the LED as well as sound and clash actually work.
- If everything works, glue the LED onto the cooling element using heat conductive glue. Furthermore the positive and negative pole of the LED are soldered with a piece of cable. After that the lensholder with the lens is set onto the LED and secured with some glue.
Photo 14
- Now the LED with the cooling element and the lens is pushed into a fixture. This fixture consists of a 2,5cm long aluminium tube that protects, cools and provides an optimal support to the LED.
Photo 15 and
Photo 16
- Push the aluminium tube (LED-fixture) into the bladeholder and secure it with two small screws.
Photo 17 and
Photo 18
- Connect the LED with all cables and solder them together as described in step 7. The cables need to be installed accurately and both halves of the chassis, in which the soundboard is located, closed properly.
Photo 19 and
Photo 20
- Connect the chassis with the soundboard and the bladeholder with some adhesive tape.
Photo 21 and
Photo 22
- Put everything back together - except for the emitter, the battery tray and the pommel.
Photo 23 and
Photo 24
- Now finally secure the bladeholder with two headless screws (M4). Therefore drill two holes each into the thread and craft M4 screw threads. The headless screws shall not stick out into the bladeholder, but make sure everything is in one line (for which they need to be grinded).
Photo 25,
Photo 26 and
Photo 27
After that the emitter can be set back in place and one does not need to take it off anymore when removing the blade.
Photo 28
When the saber is put together again properly, it is fit for combat and ready for daily use.
Photo 29
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The Lightsaber
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